Bears & Whales: About the Region

The Terrain

The Chilcotin: Our adventure begins at the north end of Ts’yl-os Provincial Park. Established in 1994, Ts’yl-os (pronounced sigh loss) is 233,240 hectares in the Chilcotin Ranges of the Coast Mountains. Although 55-mile long Chilko Lake is the centerpiece of the park, it is just one of many incredible natural features. This area is the home of black bear, grizzly, and wolf.  August and September see huge populations of bears coming to feed on the 2 million salmon that migrate annually and spawn at the head of the lake and river. Beaver, river otter, and mink can also be seen along the riverbank. We have counted over 30 species of birds on this trip.

The Johnstone Strait: Paddle through an elaborate network of coves, inlets and channels set to the backdrop of the snowcapped peaks of the mainland Coast Range. The waters here are protected from the rough Pacific wind and waves found further to the west.  Beaches, sandy dunes, and rocky headlands dot the landscape.  Along the shore are dense cedar forests and a tidal environment teeming with marine life. Numerous pods of killer whales congregate in here to feed on the rich stocks of salmon, socialize and visit a phenomenon known as the rubbing beaches. In addition to the orcas, the Johnstone Strait also hosts humpback whales, dolphins, porpoises, sea lions, black bear, grizzlies, and wolves, just to name a few.  Tens of thousands of sea birds, bald eagles and falcons make up the 90 species of birds you can see.

The Accommodations

The Lodge at Chilko Lake is an upscale private residence located in BC’s historic ranch country overlooking the river valley and mountains at the head of the Chilko River. The main lodge is a formidable log structure and is the focal point for meals, cocktails and most socializing. The surrounding cabins are a mixture of one and two bedroom log and timber frame structures carefully positioned for privacy and view. The cabins are unique but equally breathtaking featuring fine craftsmanship, comfortable furnishings and a magnificent collection of antiques and collectibles. Each unit is self-contained and has comfortable living rooms, private bathrooms and kitchenettes.

Nimmo Bay Resort features 9 private intertidal chalets, a floating main lodge, waterfall hot tubs and some of the finest food on the planet.  Tucked quietly in Nimmo Bay, it is servicd by 2-3 helicopters and a 12 passenger custom built boat known as The Dance. Similar to the Lodge at Chilko, Farewell was also established as a private “invite only “ retreat but has graciously opened its doors to ROAM. Fishing can be organized at either location by request.

Delicious chef-prepared meals utilizing fresh vegetables, meats, and seafood will be served throughout your stay. Local and regional organic and whole foods are sourced out as well. Special dietary considerations may be accommodated with advance notice. For your entire trip, and in part because we only deal with 12 guests at a time, you will have the thoughtful attention and service that you deserve.

Cultural Notes

To aboriginal people of the Nemaiah Valley, Ts’yl-os is much more than a provincial park. Ts’yl-os was a man, or at least he used to be long ago, and like any man he had his moods. Given his towering height of 3,061 meters (Mount Tatlow on a map), it is wise to respect him and especially not to point at him. His presence can be so dominating that when occasional bad weather hits the valley, the 250 native residents wonder if it is a message from their spiritual protector. For the isolated Nemaiah First Nation, their agreement on the park represents an important, but tentative first step toward reconciliation with the outside world.

The shores of the Broughton Archipelago also possess a rich cultural history. Nearby is one of the highest concentrations of archaeological sites belonging to the local Kwakiutl Nation. The North Coast also has a fascinating history of fishing and marine exploration.