This journey of discovery is one of the most ecologically diverse and personally satisfying expeditions found anywhere. We'll fly over the towering mountains and massive glaciers of the Coast Range en route to an evening at the beautiful wilderness of Chilko Lake, we'll float 130 miles through the crystal clear, turquoise water of this incredible desert river, dropping over 3000 vertical feet. The Chilko-Chilcotin-Fraser is considered a Class IV river system with a number of extended drops. On the last day of our expedition we'll fly back crossing over the 2000-foot canyons of the lower Fraser and the lakes and mountains of the southern Coast Range. Experiencing such a variety of phenomenal scenery has made guests claim that this seven-day trip has been the best of their lives.
Chilko-Chilcotin-Fraser Photo Gallery
Find out what past participants have said about this trip on the ROAM blog.
The Terrain
Our trip begins at the north end of Ts’yl-os Provincial Park. Established in 1994, Ts’yl-os (pronounced sigh loss) is 233,240 hectares in the Chilcotin Ranges of the Coast Mountains. Although Chilko Lake is the center-piece of the park, it is just one of many incredible natural features. Though there is much to explore in the region, it is rugged and un-serviced leaving its visitors up to their own devices. This is where we fit in.
The Chilcotin River flows near Nazko Lakes Provincial Park and Stum Lake Provincial Park. Both were recently expanded to protect wildlife habitat and BC’s only colony of nesting white pelicans, respectively. Upstream from the confluence of the Chilcotin and Big Creek, lies the new 660 hectares of rolling grassy plateau protected in Big Creek Provincial Park.
As rafters drift the lower Chilcotin and Fraser, they will see stocky California bighorns peering down from the cliff tops. Junction Sheep Range Provincial Park was established to protect the world’s largest non-migratory bighorn sheep herd. This is the heart of Chilcotin country, where steep escarpments rise from the river to horizontal plains, separated by vertical cliffs. These ancient lava beds were formed when massive flows of molten rock oozed from the earth, and spread and cooled, in step-like plateaus. Hoodoos, eroded by wind and rain, are the most prominent landforms. Our trip culminates at Churn Creek Canyon which is yet another new Provincial Park. Spanning more than 244 square kilometers, rare sagebrush and grasslands are preserved for our pleasure.
The Rivers
Participants are continually overwhelmed by the excitement and beauty of this natural corridor. The Chilko flows into the Chilcotin, which flows into the mighty Fraser making this free flowing waterway perfect to raft from May through September. When compared to busy rivers south of the border this circuitous system is considered a wilderness waterway. The dramatically different sections of river offer a diversity of scenery, wildlife and roller coaster rapids that will keep you grinning from start to finish. Obviously the Province of British Columbia agrees with us—as they have established more than 17 new parks in the Cariboo-Chilcotin region.
Cultural Notes
To aboriginal people of the Nemaiah Valley, Ts’yl-os is much more than a provincial park. Ts’yl-os was a man, or at least he used to be long ago, and like any man he had his moods. Given his towering height of 3,061 meters (Mount Tatlow on a map), it is wise to respect him and especially not to point at him. His presence can be so dominating that when occasional bad weather hits the valley, the 250 native residents wonder if it is a message from their spiritual protector.
For the isolated Nemaiah First Nation, their agreement on the park represents an important, but tentative first step toward reconciliation with the outside world. It is this world that led to the so-called Chilcotin Indian War of 1864 and the subsequent deaths of many. Today, that historic uprising against the white intrusion on to Chilcotin Lands continues to color the native’s psyche and the park’s future.
The silty confluence of the Chilcotin and Fraser was also a major territorial boundary. The Ts’ilhqot’in people of the Athapaskan language group, held a territory on the Northwest side of the confluence where the Junction Sheep Range is located. Small bands of natives traveled the Chilcotin watershed, hunting and gathering food. During salmon runs, these bands would come together at the mouth of the Chilcotin.
Professional Guide Services
Our river guides are as impressive as the scenery and passionate about their work. Seasoned professionals, they are delighted to pass on their knowledge and skills. As university and college graduates, they have strong backgrounds in natural history, geology and anthropology. They also have knowledge of the local region and its folklore. Part chef, part naturalist, trained in wilderness first aid and professionally certified, our leaders are eager to please and will ensure you have a memorable experience.
Equipment
We utilize state-of-the-art self-bailing rafts. The rafts have been designed with center mount oar rigs and allow participants the option of paddling or just soaking up the views. For those unfamiliar with self-bailing boats, the benefits are revolutionary. As water enters the boat, it collects on the inflated floor then drains out through grommet holes along each side.
Weather
The Chilcotin is one of the driest areas in Canada. Rainfall during July and August averages less than a few inches per month. Temperatures can reach the mid 90s (F) during the day and drop to the mid 50s during the night. Convection showers are not uncommon near the Coast Ranges. Late August and September trips have slightly cooler temperatures but better wildlife viewing as the sockeye salmon run attracts bears in incredible numbers.
Wildlife and Flora
The Chilcotin is home to the largest herd of California bighorn sheep in the world. During the rut, the big spiraled horned rams will charge at combined speeds of 50 miles per hour and butt heads 30-40 times a day, an exhausting, and often fatal fight for sexual supremacy. Another fleet footed hunter in the region is the cougar. Like other predators, cougars will prey on the weak or young. But in the Chilcotin, three quarters of all the sheep killed are adult rams. Biologists believe the large horns used in the rut, impede the rams’ peripheral and rear vision. More times than not, however, cougars are harassed to leave their kill because of the persistent coyotes. Some coyotes become the cougar’s lunch, but the big cats are more likely to look to other sheep, moose or deer. Fortunately for the cougars, all are in abundance.
This area is also the home of black bear, grizzly and wolf. Bear populations slurp down the abundant rose hip and berries in the aspen groves. August and September departures are virtually guaranteed sightings because the bears are feeding on the plentiful salmon runs. Beaver, river otter and mink can also be seen along the riverbank. We have counted over 30 species of birds on this trip. They include bald and golden eagles, peregrine falcons and many species of hawks. Canada geese, great blue herons, sage grouse, Lewis woodpeckers and many varieties of songbirds are also present. This diverse environment is also home to seven different bat species such as the western-footed Myotis and Townsend’s big-eared bats.
The upper Chilko is covered with lodgepole pine and Douglas fir. As we drop in elevation the trees become sparse. Large open grasslands interspersed with cottonwood and ponderosa pine is dominant in this dry climate. Sagebrush and prickly pear cactus cover parts of the desert on the lower Chilcotin and the canyons of the Fraser. In the desert, insects are comparatively rare. A few mosquitoes may be present, but they will be of little concern. The largest airborne bugs are butterflies, more than 40 species. Each is associated with a specific plant, and many have exotic names like painted lady, aster checkerspot, woodland skipper, and white admiral.
Fishing
The Chilko is a truly world class fishing river. For the fly fisherman there are plenty of rainbow trout and dolly varden. It also has the third largest sockeye salmon run in the province (over 2 million return annually) and is a spawning ground for spring and coho salmon as well as steelhead. Our trip spends an afternoon, evening exploring at Chilko Lake. Here you can fish the river or lake. We suggest you bring a rod with case and the smallest of tackle boxes with the appropriate lures or flies. If you only plan to fish at Chilko Lake, rods can be arranged with advanced notice. People wishing to fish will need to purchase a license upon arrival.
Back to top
