This trip combines fun activities with world-class wildlife viewing experiences. We focus on immersing participants into the daily lives of grizzlies and orcas so we can witness firsthand their interesting behavior, moods and habits.
The combination of interior and coastal British Columbia is the perfect blend of environments. We spend our days exploring the countryside and valleys by sea kayak, raft, mountain bikes and drift boat returning each night to luxurious accommodations, great food and warm hospitality.
Bears and Whales Photo Gallery
Find out what past participants have said about this trip on the ROAM blog.
Bears and Whales Adventure Travel Planner
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About the Accommodations
The Lodge at Chilko Lake is an upscale private residence located in BC’s historic ranch country overlooking the river valley and mountains at the head of the Chilko River. The main lodge is a formidable log structure and is the focal point for meals, cocktails and most socializing. The surrounding cabins are a mixture of one and two bedroom log and timber frame structures carefully positioned for privacy and view. The cabins are unique but equally breathtaking featuring fine craftsmanship, comfortable furnishings and a magnificent collection of antiques and collectibles. Each unit is self-contained and has comfortable living rooms, private bathrooms and kitchenettes.
Farewell Harbour Resort was recently purchased and is undergoing extensive renovations. It features 6 private cabins with ensuite and an outdoor hot tub with fantastic views. Spanning a half-mile of waterfront on 50 acres it is situated in a prime orca viewing location. Similar to the Lodge at Chilko, Farewell was also established as a private “invite only “ retreat but has graciously opened its doors to ROAM. Fishing can be organized at either location by request.
Delicious chef-prepared meals utilizing fresh vegetables, meats, and seafood will be served throughout your stay. Local and regional organic and whole foods are sourced out as well. Special dietary considerations may be accommodated with advance notice. For your entire trip, and in part because we only deal with 12 guests at a time, you will have the thoughtful attention and service that you deserve.
The Terrain
Our adventure begins at the north end of Ts’yl-os Provincial Park. Established in 1994, Ts’yl-os (pronounced sigh loss) is 233,240 hectares in the Chilcotin Ranges of the Coast Mountains. Although Chilko Lake is the centerpiece of the park, it is just one of many incredible natural features. Though there is much to explore in the region, it is rugged and unserviced leaving its visitors up to their own devices. This is where we fit in.
The Johnstone Strait is located at the northern tip of Vancouver Island and is an extension of Discovery Passage, one of the most popular navigational routes for cruise ships heading north to Alaska. The waters are protected from the rough Pacific wind and waves found further to the west. The Strait consist of a large archipelago of islands set to the backdrop of the snowcapped peaks of the mainland Coast Range. Beaches, sandy dunes, and rocky headlands dot the landscape. What makes this region so popular is its elaborate network of coves, inlets and channels that provide for intimate and inspiring kayaking. Along the shore are dense cedar forests and a tidal environment teeming with marine life. The amazing clarity of the waters here makes for exceptional viewing.
The River
Participants are continually overwhelmed by the excitement and beauty of this natural corridor. The Chilko River drains Chilko Lake making this free flowing waterway perfect to raft from May through October. The Chilko is one of North America’s best rafting rivers and boasts miles of roller coaster rapids that will keep you grinning from start to finish. Obviously the Province of British Columbia agrees with us, as it has established more than 17 new parks in the Cariboo-Chilcotin region.
Cultural Notes
To aboriginal people of the Nemaiah Valley, Ts’yl-os is much more than a provincial park. Ts’yl-os was a man, or at least he used to be long ago, and like any man he had his moods. Given his towering height of 3,061 meters (Mount Tatlow on a map), it is wise to respect him and especially not to point at him. His presence can be so dominating that when occasional bad weather hits the valley, the 250 native residents wonder if it is a message from their spiritual protector.
For the isolated Nemaiah First Nation, their agreement on the park represents an important, but tentative first step toward reconciliation with the outside world. It is this world that led to the so-called Chilcotin Indian War of 1864 and the subsequent deaths of many. Today, that historic uprising against the white intrusion on Chilcotin Lands continues to color the native’s psyche and the park’s future.
The shores of the Johnstone Strait also possess a rich cultural history. Nearby is one of the highest concentrations of archaeological sites belonging to the local Kwakiutl Nation. The North Coast also has a fascinating history of fishing and marine exploration.
Professional Guide Services
Our river guides are as impressive as the scenery and passionate about their work. Seasoned professionals, they are delighted to pass on their knowledge and skills. As university and college graduates, they have strong backgrounds in natural history, geology, and anthropology. They also have knowledge of the local region and its folklore. Part instructor, part naturalist, trained in wilderness first aid and professionally certified, our leaders are eager to please and will ensure you have a memorable experience.
Equipment
Our kayaks are manufactured in B.C. and are ideally suited for the waters we are paddling. On the river we utilize state-of-the-art self-bailing rafts. They have been designed with center-mount oar rigs and allow participants the option of paddling or just soaking up the views. For the trails we have a fleet of Kona mountain bikes with shocks and disc brakes.
Our fishing boats are the finest of Koffler Boats designs and are equipped with environmentally - friendly 4-stroke outboard jets to minimize noise and pollution. We have a state of the art drift boat for fishing and floating the upper 21 miles of river, as well as inflatable kayaks for those wanting a little more excitement and challenge.
Weather
The Chilcotin is one of the driest areas in Canada. Rainfall during August and September averages less than a few inches per month. Temperatures can reach the 80s (degrees F) during the day and drop to the mid-40s during the night. Convection showers are not uncommon near the Coast Ranges.
During the summer months, the weather in the Strait is generally at its best. Mid-summer trips (mid-July to mid-August) enjoy spells of "t-shirt" weather while cooler daytime high’s are in effect during September. Temperatures may range from 16 - 25 degrees Celsius (60-75F) but sea breezes have a cooling effect in late afternoon.
September is the clearest month and extended periods of rain are unlikely. The heavy precipitation responsible for the large stands of spruce and cedar falls primarily in the months of November to March. Water temperatures remain cold year-round hovering about 7 - 10 degrees Celsius (45-50F) so extended swimming and snorkeling requires a wetsuit.
Wildlife and Flora
This area is the home of black bear, grizzly, and wolf. In summer bear populations slurp down the abundant rose hips and berries in the aspen groves. August and September see huge populations of coming to feed on the 2 million salmon that migrate annually and spawn at the head of the lake and river.
Beaver, river otter, and mink can also be seen along the riverbank. We have counted over 30 species of birds on this trip. They include bald and golden eagles, peregrine falcons, and many species of hawks. Canada geese, great blue herons, sage grouse, Lewis woodpeckers, and many varieties of songbirds are also present. This diverse environment is also home to seven different bat species such as the western-footed Myotis and Townsend’s big-eared bats.
The upper Chilko is covered with lodgepole pine and Douglas fir. As we drop in elevation the trees become sparse. Large open grasslands interspersed with cottonwood and ponderosa pine is dominant in this dry climate. Sagebrush and prickly pear cactus cover parts of the desert on the lower Chilcotin and the canyons of the Fraser. In the desert, insects are comparatively rare. A few mosquitoes may be present, but they will be of little concern. The largest airborne bugs are butterflies, more than 40 species. Each is associated with a specific plant, and many have exotic names like painted lady, aster checkerspot, woodland skipper, and white admiral.
Numerous pods of killer whales congregate in the Johnstone Srait to feed on the rich stocks of salmon, socialize and visit a phenomenon known as the rubbing beaches. In the early 1970's, local researchers began using photo identification of the whales’ predominant dorsal fins and specific color patterns in order to track their movements and lifespan.
Why are they known as “killer whales”? This tag refers specifically to a small transient group of orca whales from a distinct gene pool. The majority of whales we encounter are a larger variety with highly developed behavioral patterns. Growing up to 9 meters (30 feet) in length, they feed voraciously on salmon over a lifespan of about 70 years. Fortunately, and contrary to some myths, orcas find humans too chewy to make a mainstay of their diet!
Hydrophone and radio communication networks have greatly helped with locating pods of visiting whales. Orcas possess a highly structured means of communication, with each family group capable of distinct dialects. Our equipment allows us to eavesdrop on their conversations. After listening and viewing these creatures, you will quickly understand why the orca has always played an important role in the mythology of the local Kwakiutl peoples. It is important to note that we follow a code of whale-viewing ethics that ensure the orcas are not disturbed while they perform their instinctive rituals.
In addition to the orcas, the Johnstone Strait also hosts black bear, grizzlies, wolves, sea lions, otters, salmon, halibut, cod, Dungeness crab, sea cucumber, urchins and prawns just to name a few of the many varieties. Tens of thousands of sea birds, bald eagles and falcons make up the 90 species of birds you can see.
Fishing
For the fly fisherman, the Chilko is truly world class. This prime location where sockeye salmon and rainbow trout are found together produces some of the best fishing in British Columbia. The Chilko River is big and fast, pouring out of spectacularly beautiful Chilko Lake. Most of the rivers depth is over four feet and some of its pools exceed 20 feet. The glaciers surrounding the lake provide the river a constant supply of cold water while the suspended glacial solids tint the water a lovely cerulean blue.
The upper 8 miles of the river are most often fished as they feature a smooth even current and provide some of the best fishing for large trout and bull trout found anywhere. The river is one of B.C.’s best fisheries and has a special classification because of it. The lodge is equipped with nice fishing gear that you can use but if you plan on fishing a lot, you may want to bring your favorite 4 to 6-weight rod with case. An assortment of appropriate dry and wet flies are available at the lodge.
If you intend to fish from your kayak, you must obtain a tidal water sport fishing licence. Licences can be purchased at the resort. We will be able to jig for cod and halibut or troll for salmon. We provide a few salmon rods and cod jigs if you are interested in fishing. The chef is always happy to incorporate the “catch of the day” into our evening menus! The record to date out of a kayak is a 46lb salmon.
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