Zooming off on one of the most spectacular plane rides on earth is the start to our adventure. It is a wake up call for most city folk, entering this landscape of ice, freckled with towering serrated ridges and dramatic glacial lakes. The 55-mile stretch of Chilko Lake is translucent and azure-like, on par with the waters of the South Pacific. The lake beckons exploration, as does the Chilko River flowing out of its north end. And it is exactly this combination of serene and bustling that makes this trip so incredible.
Chilko Multi-Sport Photo Gallery
Find out what past participants have said about this trip on the ROAM blog.
Chilko Multi-Sport Adventure Travel Planner
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The Terrain
Our trip begins at the north end of Ts’yl-os Provincial Park. Established in 1994, Ts’yl-os (pronounced sigh loss) is 233,240 hectares in the Chilcotin Ranges of the Coast Mountains. Although Chilko Lake is the centerpiece of the park, it is just one of many incredible natural features. Though there is much to explore in the region, it is rugged and unserviced leaving its visitors up to their own devices. This is where we fit in.
The Chilcotin River flows near Nazko Lakes Provincial Park and Stum Lake Provincial Park. Both were recently expanded to protect wildlife habitat and BC’s only colony of nesting white pelicans, respectively. Upstream from the confluence of the Chilcotin and Big Creek, lies the new 660 hectares of rolling grassy plateau protected in Big Creek Provincial Park
The River
Participants are continually overwhelmed by the excitement and beauty of this natural corridor. The Chilko River drains Chilko Lake making this free flowing waterway perfect to raft from May through October. When compared to busy rivers south of the border, this circuitous system is considered a wilderness waterway. The Chilko is one of North America’s best rafting rivers and boasts miles of roller coaster rapids that will keep you grinning from start to finish. Obviously the Province of British Columbia agrees with us, as it has established more than 17 new parks in the Cariboo-Chilcotin region.
Cultural Notes
To aboriginal people of the Nemaiah Valley, Ts’yl-os is much more than a provincial park. Ts’yl-os was a man, or at least he used to be long ago, and like any man he had his moods. Given his towering height of 3,061 meters (Mount Tatlow on a map), it is wise to respect him and especially not to point at him. His presence can be so dominating that when occasional bad weather hits the valley, the 250 native residents wonder if it is a message from their spiritual protector.
For the isolated Nemaiah First Nation, their agreement on the park represents an important, but tentative first step toward reconciliation with the outside world. It is this world that led to the so-called Chilcotin Indian War of 1864 and the subsequent deaths of many. Today, that historic uprising against the white intrusion on Chilcotin Lands continues to color the native’s psyche and the park’s future.
The silty confluence of the Chilcotin and Fraser was also a major territorial boundary. The Ts’ilhqot’in people of the Athapaskan language group held a territory on the northwest side of the confluence where the Junction Sheep Range is located. Small bands of natives traveled the Chilcotin watershed, hunting and gathering food. During salmon runs, these bands would come together at the mouth of the Chilcotin.
Professional Guide Services
Our river guides are as impressive as the scenery and passionate about their work. Seasoned professionals, they are delighted to pass on their knowledge and skills. As university and college graduates, they have strong backgrounds in natural history, geology, and anthropology. They also have knowledge of the local region and its folklore. Part chef, part naturalist, trained in wilderness first aid and professionally certified, our leaders are eager to please and will ensure you have a memorable experience.
Equipment
Our kayaks are manufactured in B.C. and are ideally suited for the waters we are paddling. On the river we utilize state-of-the-art self-bailing rafts. They have been designed with center-mount oar rigs and allow participants the option of paddling or just soaking up the views. For those unfamiliar with self-bailing boats, the benefits are revolutionary. As water enters the boat, it collects on the inflated floor then drains out through grommet holes along each side.
Our fishing boats are the finest of Koffler Boats designs and are equipped with environmentally - friendly 4-stroke outboard jets to minimize noise and pollution. We have a state of the art drift boat for fishing and floating the upper 21 miles of river, as well as inflatable kayaks for those wanting a little more excitement and challenge.
Weather
The Chilcotin is one of the driest areas in Canada. Rainfall during July and August averages less than a few inches per month. Temperatures can reach the 90s (degrees F) during the day and drop to the mid-50s during the night. Convection showers are not uncommon near the Coast Ranges.
Wildlife and Flora
The Chilcotin is home to the largest herd of California bighorn sheep in the world. During the rut, the big spiral-horned rams will charge at combined speeds of 50 miles per hour and butt heads 30-40 times a day, an exhausting, and often fatal fight for sexual supremacy. Another fleet-footed hunter in the region is the cougar. Like other predators, cougars will prey on the weak or young. But in the Chilcotin, three quarters of all the sheep killed are adult rams. Biologists believe the large horns used in the rut, impede the rams’ peripheral and rear vision. More times than not, however, cougars are harassed to leave their kill because of the persistent coyotes. Some coyotes become the cougar’s lunch, but the big cats are more likely to look to other sheep, moose, or deer. Fortunately for the cougars, all are in abundance.
This area is also the home of black bear, grizzly, and wolf. Bear populations slurp down the abundant rose hips and berries in the aspen groves. August and September departures are virtually guaranteed sightings because the bears are feeding on the plentiful salmon runs. Beaver, river otter, and mink can also be seen along the riverbank. We have counted over 30 species of birds on this trip. They include bald and golden eagles, peregrine falcons, and many species of hawks. Canada geese, great blue herons, sage grouse, Lewis woodpeckers, and many varieties of songbirds are also present. This diverse environment is also home to seven different bat species such as the western-footed Myotis and Townsend’s big-eared bats.
The upper Chilko is covered with lodgepole pine and Douglas fir. As we drop in elevation the trees become sparse. Large open grasslands interspersed with cottonwood and ponderosa pine is dominant in this dry climate. Sagebrush and prickly pear cactus cover parts of the desert on the lower Chilcotin and the canyons of the Fraser. In the desert, insects are comparatively rare. A few mosquitoes may be present, but they will be of little concern. The largest airborne bugs are butterflies, more than 40 species. Each is associated with a specific plant, and many have exotic names like painted lady, aster checkerspot, woodland skipper, and white admiral.
Fishing
For the fly fisherman, the Chilko is truly world class. This prime location where sockeye salmon and rainbow trout are found together produces some of the best fishing in British Columbia. The Chilko River is big and fast, pouring out of spectacularly beautiful Chilko Lake. Most of the rivers depth is over four feet and some of its pools exceed 20 feet. The glaciers surrounding the lake provide the river a constant supply of cold water while the suspended glacial solids tint the water a lovely cerulean blue. The upper 8 miles of the river are most often fished as they feature a smooth even current and provide some of the best fishing for large trout and bull trout found anywhere. The river is one of B.C.’s best fisheries and has a special classification because of it. The lodge is equipped with nice fishing gear that you can use but if you plan on fishing a lot, you may want to bring your favorite 4 to 6-weight rod with case. An assortment of appropriate dry and wet flies are available at the lodge.
More than 2 million sockeye salmon return annually in August-September, with spawning completed by mid-October. The Chilko River has the third largest sockeye salmon run in the and is a spawning ground for spring and coho salmon as well as steelhead. For this reason, it is not uncommon for fisherman to be joined streamside by bears also looking for a catch. With advanced notice, and for an additional fee, we can organize a fishing guide. Having said this, fishing the Chilko River is straightforward. One can fish from shore, in waders, belly boats or by motorboat using drift techniques. One should expect to catch 18-29 inch rainbow trout.
A Canadian fishing license is required to fish either the lake or the river. You will need an additional daily sticker to fish the river. The river is fly-fishing only (catch and release) while some fish caught in the lake may be kept. You are allowed to use spin-casting equipment on the main lake—which can also be very productive. All licenses may be purchased in Vancouver or at the Lodge.
